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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 5:44:46 GMT -5
So last night I took everything apart and organized it a bit in prep for going away next week on vacation. I'm hoping to have some free time to work on the project. In doing so I stripped the gun down to its original bare-bones state with nothing but the power and RPi hooked up and semi-mounted.
Now comes the planning for modifying the gun itself so all the buttons can be added, all boards mounted, and all wiring completed so everything can be self contained and secure with nothing but power hanging out. In this state it can be tested more easily
Each reply to this post with focus on a particular button (or control), its purpose, and how its going to be made.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 5:49:52 GMT -5
ON/OFF button
The original green center button on the xbox controller is special in that it enables all of the security and essentially takes the microcontroller out of a sleep state. It need to be held down for a couple of seconds before it will start. This button does not need to be close to any finger since it is rarely accessed and certainly not accessed during game-play.
A red/black twisted wire pair attaches to a switch.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 8:55:19 GMT -5
General button issue
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I have these smallish press buttons with 4 lunar-lander leads that I'll be using. I'm thinking all buttons will need the following components:
- a mounting that holds the switch fixed in place that can be secured to the gun
- an exposed "activator" which might be plastic or any other item that the user sees - that (by nature of how its designed) can't fall off or out of the gun
- a spring that goes over the button and sits between the switch and the activator
- something that exposes the leads for a quick-connect/disconnect capability
It would be nice if the mounting could slide into a slot on one side and be secured by a single small wood screw.
Current thinking is that a cut-out of a hole could have a thin strip of plastic glued to it (back side) to keep it from falling out of the hole. A separate U shaped bracket would straddle that strip and inside the impression would be the switch (the leads straddling the width of the U). One end of that U would go into a molded slit (perhaps a piece of addition plastic part glued into place) and the other end would be screwed into place with a tiny wood screw.
Depth of the U would need to be maybe an 1/8" or 1/16" deeper than the switch itself. This would allow the glued on bar strip to have a bubble rubber cover (from the old buttons, cut out) placed over the mechanical button and provide a buffer between the plastic and the switch. This should give it a "springy" feel.
Need to get the smallest tab-clamp for wire crimping I can find - or maybe I can make one out of excess strip parts. They could clamp right on to the switch leads.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 9:03:59 GMT -5
Left Joystick assembly
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This can be mounted to the left side of the grip right where the thumb naturally hangs out (the right handed thumb on a right handed person).
The problem with this joystick is that it was meant to be soldered into a board. Instead of doing this what I'm going to have to do is to build a plastic box (frame) for it to fit into with a hole drilled so the stick can protrude out and is large enough for the rubber topper to fit on it (and for it to be moved around in a circle).
The other half of the gun should have a protrusion that touches the back of the casing (not on a wire) that keeps it in place so when the stick is pressed on, it has no where to go.
Update:
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I had forgotten that the rubber topped stick actually has a dome shaped base that is wider that the stick top itself. this means it has to be inserted from within the gun and that the dome is behind the plastic. There is not enough space in the gun for this. So I dremmeled out the housing for it on the old controller (black plastic) and then noted that there were two channels that could be used as guides - so I dremmeled out an opening in the left side of the gun handle (towards top) so that it would fit in and be secure. The joystick could then fit inside this with plenty of room.
Mounting it will be an issue - I temporarily placed it in with paper towel as a buffer - then put silicon all around it and the round plastic casing hoping it would at least keep it somewhat in-place. When its try I'll try to find a way to re-enforce it - perhaps with additional plastic. What I really need is a molded piece that fits snugly around the joystick and also snugly inside the casing (round plastic with a square cut out of its center).
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 9:22:47 GMT -5
<, and Start buttons --------------------------------- These buttons are remoted just like the on/off button. The difference though is that I think these buttons can be mounted much more simply and on the top of the gun somewhere. I'm envisioning cutting a hole that barely fits the switch - placing the switch in the hole (with leads protruding out) but before the switch goes in, insert a switch boot (rubber) into the hole (so hole size needs to compensate for that). The boot would be filled with silicon. Here is a place that sells switch boots: www.switchboots.com/The switch could be secured in place with a plastic or metal strip secured with two micro self-tapping screws on either side. Screw size perhaps like this: www.jimorrisco.com/index/product/id/63Leads would be tide to a tiny metal strip so that a crimped connector could be used for easy connection/removal. |
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 9:29:36 GMT -5
LB/RB
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The LB will be on the left side of the gun where the thumb naturally lies whereas the RB will be on the right side where the index finger naturally lies (in COD these are the lethal/tactical buttons). The generic button approach will be used to create/secure these if there is no obvious ways to use the plastic from the original controller in a cool way.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 9:39:58 GMT -5
D-PAD
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The D-PAD is very distinct looking and behind the scenes it is simply 4 distinct switches. Although games could use it as a "hat" control (N/NE/E/SE/S/SW/W/NW - with a compass style set of possibilities - most games (and COD) use it as a 4-choice pad).
The plan for the D-PAD is to use the bubble buttons that came in the controller and figure out a way to keep the whole assembly in place (perhaps a glued in plastic "cage"? We will attempt to place the xbox controller board in a spot where the D-PAD location when extended to the outside plastic, is in a natural position wrto the LB button (and where you would expect a person to naturally hold the gun).
Will probably need 4 separate shafts for each side of the D-PAD that go from the round inner plastic of the familiar grey D-Pad, to the polydome membrane button trigger. Two pieces of plastic with holes (or channels) drilled in them will hold the shafts and allow them to slide.
Need to look at the xbox controller to see how the D-Pad exposed is held in place - need some ideas.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 10:05:46 GMT -5
A, B, and Y buttons
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Normally the A function would be handled by a transistor activated output in a programmatic fashion for a "jump" function. However - when traversing a menu it could be sort of ridiculous to be jumping around to activate the "select" function typical with "A". So what we'll do instead is to create another physical button for the "A" function that is in the left pinky position (of a right-hander). A is a microcontroller mapped output, but also a physical override as we see here. NOTE: we will need to remove silicon to tap into the transitor leads, or find off-switch jumpers to attach to in order to handle this switch.
The B button would be right next to it as the ring finger position which in a menu mode would be "Back" - but in COD is crouch/prone action. B is a microcontroller mapped I/O button.
Finally the Y button would be in the middle finger position which is less commonly used out of game, but in the game is the switch weapons button. Y is a microcontroller mapped I/O button.
All three of these buttons will be mounted in the same way using the actual buttons from the original controller. May have to shorten them and put a backing on them so they can press the button. May also need to construct a special mounting for the switches as they will likely not be mounted flush to the hole created.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 10:16:52 GMT -5
X Button and RT (right trigger)
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There is actually a button that came with the gun that we can use for this - it was in the position of the reload spring bar (you pull back on it) - all we need to do is reassemble it and re-use the switch holder. and put the spring back in place. NOTE: In the software we'll want to invert this switch as the normal position would be considered on otherwise when in fact we want to consider that off.
Same goes for the trigger - an existing switch, holder and spring exist that can be resurrected.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 10:24:58 GMT -5
RSTK_DOWN
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The Right stick down button will be on the grip at the middle finger position. In game it is considered the mele button.
The switch-boot approach could be used for this button.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 15, 2013 10:35:52 GMT -5
Misc new buttons
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Config button (gpio 29)
Mode button (gpio 31)
Misc new outputs
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Power - extend the RPi light with fiber cable?
xbox controller power - extend with fiber cable?
LED - config/mode feedback (gpio 30)
The mode/config buttons will be mounted on top with rubber protectors - the light/LED will go right next to them.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 16, 2013 5:48:17 GMT -5
Sync button
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Going to provide a hold to insert a paper clip or something thin and straight to trigger sync. The controller board's sync button will be facing the top of the gun barrel and for guide assist could put a plastic tube in and surround the switch.
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 21, 2013 13:32:52 GMT -5
Here is a pic of the Power/Start/Options assembly at the left/rear of the gun - the location for the cutout. This is on the gun brace extension.  Here is a pic of the Power/Start/Options assembly fit into the cut-out and then doused in silicon. I then put the cut-out membrane in place with 4-lead buttons upside-down (2 leads cut off of each) and covered it all with silicon and let it dry. PIC is of the inside view.  This pic shows the LB already in a hole cut out on the left side with the D-PAD hole cut as well. The D-Pad was located by using the screw post in the lower-left as a reference and using a caliper for width/depth measurements. I intentionally made the hole bigger than the d-pad housing I cut out of the controller so that I had some slop. The idea is that I'll fit the gun back together and rest the d-pad assembly (fully assembled) on top of the membrane and then use silicon in the gaps to secure it in place. For the LB itself I used the actual RB/LB from the controller and cut them out as shown in the pic. I cut a hole that fit the outside of it fairly well (without it falling through) and then lathered it with silicon on the lever-end. The 3mm bolt post you see is going to be used to secure a switch on a plastic extension.  This shows the outside of the RB button right next to the xbox controller board's mounting bolt. It is fixed in place in the same way as the LB. The controller board's mounting bolt will double as a post for the switch extension.  These button bars I also call switch extensions. They have button's super glued in place on one end and then holes drilled on the opposite end so it can be affixed to a post. I measured with a caliper and marked both sides first to get the distance right between the post and the center of the button protrusion on the LB/RB plastic pieces. I padded the posts with nuts to get the right vertical distance and then tightened with a final bolt. Silicon will be used to keep the bolts from moving and to keep the plastic extension from moving left to right (keeping it over-top of the button protrusion.  |
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 21, 2013 14:00:08 GMT -5
I cut the D-pad housing, the Power/Start/Options housing, and all 4 of the X/Y/A/B button housings from the original x-box controllers as shown. The A/B buttons will go on the right side left hand position behind RB. The Y button will be in the ring finger position on the grip (below the RSTK in the middle-finger grip position). I used a tungsten dremmel cutting tool (basically a straight rod with serrated end) and then a basic barrel sander to smooth things out.  This is one half of the gun brace extension (kick back) that shows a hole I drilled to allow the three switch wires to come through that extend the Power/Start/Options button on the controller.  This is a top down picture of the controller (right half) with the xbox controller on its posts as well as the RPi.  |
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Post by Frisbone on Aug 21, 2013 14:21:23 GMT -5
Here are the dremmel bits I used.  Here are the A/B buttons in place with silicon in holes I made next to the RB button on the right half. Note that I have membrane on top of them. Also note that the RB bar is in place with silicon on the post.  This is a bar I constructed out of the orange plastic covering the muzzle (same as the LB/RB bars). This one has two buttons on it super-glued in place and then braced with silicon at the right distance for the A/B buttons. Again, just two leads exposed. Ultimately the bar will be put in place with silicon.  Here is the power assembly that I've braced with a small strip of wood and lathered in silicon (god I love this stuff, hope it doesn't kill me).  This pic shows the LB bar in place on the left half (next to d-pad). Last pic didn't show the bar. NOTE: this bar is longer and I had to put silicon on the far end (opposite end as post) in order to reduce the flexing so the button could be pressed. Still waiting on the verdict for this one.  |
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