|
Post by Frisbone on Sept 9, 2013 15:29:56 GMT -5
So did you get started yet? Or are you still waiting on parts? I didn't end up with much free time this weekend other than some thought experiments. Busy with slaughtering roosters, repairing windows, and moving furniture.
|
|
|
Post by lintball on Sept 9, 2013 18:54:43 GMT -5
My Status… 1. Went thru your post have a good understanding/mapping of the DIO for the Pi. 2. Started to disassemble the xbox controller but had to stop when it came to desoldering the last few components. Realized my iron was busted. 3. Turned on the Pi and browsed thru the code a bit and using the bread board passed thru a few buttons.
At this point I am waiting for a few things to arrive in the mail like the soldering iron. I was going to look into what to do about the analog signals joystick and triggers. I like the idea of the DACs, they seem like the most straight forward way to do it. Though that only handles the joystick. So either I can order more that have the other addressing or find some other I2C DAC solution for the other analogs.
Did you ever have much luck with just making the triggers digital?
|
|
|
Post by lintball on Sept 9, 2013 18:55:40 GMT -5
As far as your button/joystick placements is there anything you really don't like or would want to tweak?
|
|
|
Post by Frisbone on Sept 9, 2013 21:16:15 GMT -5
For the digital pots, aren't there two per chip? Perhaps a mixed solution? Pots on the triggers?
I never needed to go forth with the digital triggers and the transistor solution to that seemed overly complex. I'll give some thought to alternatives. You could look into how easy it is to order alternate address chips - my fear is that they may only do that for high volume orders - but you never know...
Regarding button placement, yes - definitely would tweak the positions. I'll break out the caliper tomorrow and give you current positions and alternate positions for things. Melee seems to be in an inconvenient location - natural thing might be a grip squeeze somehow. Right ring finger on mine is a little low I think.
Left joy I have oriented wrong. I should have mounted it rotated 90 deg counter clockwise and moved further down the grip. Barrel protector buttons seem ok.
Dont forget to post detailed progress and pics so its easier to put together assembly instructions down the road.
|
|
|
Post by lintball on Sept 11, 2013 22:48:18 GMT -5
Started to desolder the controller…a bit tougher then I thought. Hoping I didn't burn off too much of the contacts. Removed the Triggers, LB,RB and Left joystick so far.
|
|
|
Post by Frisbone on Sept 12, 2013 4:54:43 GMT -5
Yeah, flux helps a lot in reducing the heat you need to remove the solder.
Bending the pins in the opposite direction of where it is caught (on remaining solder that can't be sucked) with the tip of your iron helps too. Once you have them all cleaned up, pry it out one corner at a time.
|
|
|
Post by Frisbone on Sept 12, 2013 20:34:13 GMT -5
Here is some info regarding locations of physical buttons:
Opt/Power/Start Housing - 16.24mm from end of stock attachment - 2.7mm down from crease - opening barely wider than the cut-out housing
Left Joystick - 1.7mm from lip of grip facing trigger - 2mm below upper edge of grip where an impressed horizontal line exists - lower edge of joystick housing merges into the textured grip area by about 1.5mm - Opening was dremeled so it was "keyed" to accept the housing only one way - Made error where I mounted it incorrectly. Top needs to be pointing down the barrel instead of towards the to of the gun.
Y button - 28.3mm from bottom of grip, hole the same size as housing - centered - doing it over again I would have put it as close to the bump between the middle & ring fingers as much as possible
RSTK down button - about 3.5mm from top of grip, centered - Perhaps would make it protrude more or fashion some squeeze mechanism on grip to function as the switch.
B button - centered above 5th hole on right half of gun barrel (round hole) - centered on the ridged rail
A button - centered between 6th and 7th holes on right half of gun barrel - centered on the ridged rail
RB button - extends between 9th hole (dremmeled out) and up to the non-ridged rail (above the ridged one) - made in the shape of the RB button - not sure using the xbox buttons for this made any sense, think a more clever mechanism should be thought up for the same spot
LB button - 21mm from front barrel housing - generally in same vertical spot as corresponding RB button
dpad - 67.4mm from front barrel housing - 14.63mm from top of non-ridged rail - position represents the center of the dpad - cut out hole much bigger than dpad, used silicon to hold in place after it was set in from top with gun assembled - problem: dpad is depressed inside the barrel housing and doesn't protrude out. Think a new type of dpad should be conceived and mounted in a more intelligent manner.
Mode/Config/LED - positions are on the far side of the receiver (toward barrel) - centered on 2-half assembly crease - position along them doesn't matter much. But from magazine entry point they are (to center of buttons): 8.5 (mode), 16.2 (led), and 38mm (mode)
|
|
|
Post by lintball on Sept 12, 2013 20:44:57 GMT -5
Thanks for the locations…Found a desoldering Iron…Wow that was a lot easier! Next step to start wiring the transistors and resistors to the buttons.
|
|
|
Post by Frisbone on Sept 12, 2013 21:02:24 GMT -5
Would be good to know if your rev controller is the same as mine. There were at least 3 versions and the are all structures a bit differently. See if you can get a model/rev info and/or compare it to the pictures I posted of mine.
|
|
|
Post by lintball on Sept 12, 2013 21:23:58 GMT -5
Yea I just noticed that comparing your pics to my board. Mine is a definitely a different REV…its labelled X817143-006 by the Microsoft stamp. I think for what we are doing, its not going to matter much. That said I will be checking the button inputs as I go a long.
|
|
|
Post by Frisbone on Sept 13, 2013 4:59:31 GMT -5
You'll probably find that the pads on many buttons are reversed from mine so orientation of the emitter/collector matter. One side has a relatively low resistance to ground (like 4.7k ohm) while the other side had none. Arrow points to ground side (transistor schematic arrow).
|
|
|
Post by lintball on Sept 16, 2013 18:34:46 GMT -5
How is working the joystick does it sit in a good position or do you think a smaller/shorter stick be more comfy…I saw this and it got me thinking… PSP 2-Axis Analog Thumb Joystick
|
|
|
Post by Frisbone on Sept 16, 2013 19:16:54 GMT -5
I agree that a lower profile (shorter) would be easier to control. Width probably wouldn't matter much.
Worth a go I'd say.
|
|
|
Post by lintball on Sept 22, 2013 20:48:00 GMT -5
I got 2 psp joysticks, so I will try to wire it up and make sure it works. I was thinking that perhaps instead of the Y button(weapon switch) being on the grip, that it might be more comfy to place it on the right side of the gun body where there is a indented square area just above the trigger. Should be able to move your trigger finger up to press it.
|
|
|
Post by Frisbone on Sept 22, 2013 21:54:28 GMT -5
That sounds logical. You probably don't need to have it on the grip and you won't need to use your Trigger when you're changing weapons.
That leaves a better space for the melee button to fit down on the grip.
|
|